MWK talks to… Lauren Manville, Founder of Mother Rose 🌹
What was the initial inspiration for Mother Rose and how did that evolve to where you are today?
The initial inspiration for Mother Rose was, and remains, from all the wonderful women in my life. At the time many of them were pregnant and postpartum, and with this transitional phase of womanhood, many had lost confidence. Although they were in awe of what their bodies were doing, they weren’t prepared for this seismic change in their sense of self, and how people viewed them. There wasn’t really anything style-wise that represented my friends or me, so I saw that something was missing; chic and progressive womenswear in the maternity arena. Today I still have the same want, to make women feel confident and gorgeous. For a woman to be 8 months pregnant, or 5 months postpartum, and still be able to walk into a meeting and sell an idea, attend an event with their head held high and not feel marginalised, irrelevant or side-lined. They are doing the most powerful thing in the world by creating a person, so my want is for Mother Rose to reconnect them with their power and sexiness.
Did you always want to work in fashion?
Ever since I was a little girl I used to adore going through my grandma’s wardrobe and learn the history of all her pieces. I would fashion towels into outfits and do catwalks for my mum. From about age 6 I started drawing clothes. I’ve had several careers and passions, but fashion has remained a constant throughout all.
At MWHQ we are inspired by female leaders (being headed up by two incredible women) – could you share your top tip for leading a team?
I love that about MWHQ! Makes me feel very excited to be affiliated with it. I went to Manchester High School for Girls, founded by the Suffragettes, so womanhood and supporting women have always been top of the agenda for me. I guess my main aims for leading are to encourage and support. It’s essential people feel listened to and valued. Too often I’ve been under management of people who want to quash ambition, so I know how that feels, and try to explore any ideas presented to me.
We love your designs that manage to combine practicality, by adapting to a woman’s evolving body throughout pregnancy, whilst still remaining incredibly beautiful – where did these innovative ideas come from?
Thank you so much, that means a lot! When I realised there was a gap in the fashion industry I started really researching, and became virtually obsessed with reading any information about this area of fashion. I practically lived in the IP and Business section of the British Library! I then sent out questionnaires to a range of women in London, Manchester, New York, LA – just as a microcosm of the women I hoped might be interested. I asked them what was difficult in terms of dressing when pregnant, what did they wish they had. A girlfriend who was acting in LA and going to premiers explained that when she was pregnant her knees bloated from water retention. These are things no one tells you about, and no one designs for it in a tailored sense, and so this is where the idea of the Cigarette Tuxedo Pants came from, as they can be adjusted to accommodate for swollen knees and growing legs in general. As a woman I’m aware how much my body fluctuates throughout the month, so with this level of change it was crucial that the clothing adapted to the body.
I’m also very aware from research, and speaking with many women, that they don’t want to keep buying more clothes throughout pregnancy – it’s expensive and wasteful. Mother Rose grows with the body, so this isn’t a concern – it can be worn from early days of pregnancy right through to post partum and beyond, and still offers a flattering fit. I’m not pregnant and wear all the pieces.
During fits I had 5 different women trying on all the garments, either at different stages of pregnancy or not pregnant, as well as myself, to truly make sure they were flattering and comfortable.
The very elements that make the pieces functional are also the design features that elevate the pieces, making them both visually exciting whilst functionally viable. For example, the use of varying pleating techniques in the side panels of garments act as an accordion, providing excess fabric and therefore space to grow. I’ve tried to be thoughtful in design and construction – although I’m aware sometimes my factory hate me – as they are very complex pieces to make!
Could you share some of your inspirations and references for the collection?
As cliche as it sounds, I often look to history – I studied history as my first degree and I’m drawn to details whether it be a cuff, a collar or a seam, I’m excited by certain historical references juxtaposed with progressive shapes. I also love art and try to immerse myself in art books or going to lots of galleries when trying to get inspired. Travelling is also wonderful, I often design when I’m away.
What were your favourite outfits as a child?
I loved a little gingham dress with welly boots! Pretty much any pretty dress with my wellington boots
Which is your favourite piece from the collection and if you were dressing to twin with your little one, which piece would you choose from the MWK platform to match?
I think twinning-wise perhaps the Origami Dress in check or the Cloud Pinny Top in check to twin with Marie-Chantal Fabiola Cord Pinafore would be adorable. Or perhaps the Scallop Cape Smock with Oxford Bags both black could look very cute with the Molo Kids Gracie cardi and Adoria trousers – both perfect for NYE!
The rental retail model is a great way for customers to consume sustainably. Is finding sustainable options something important to your business ethos?
It’s hugely important. Renting pieces affords people the opportunity to wear different styles without having to buy, and then potentially wear, a couple of times before it is demoted or discarded. All pieces are handmade in London with a focus on investing in the local community. From using an expert pleater, who has pleated by hand for 43 years, to using factories in Seven Sisters, and Pattern Cutters in Bethnal Green, the notion of sustainability extends to the dynamic and expert local community. It is considerate, thoughtful, slow fashion. It removes the notion of throwaway fashion and becomes more conscious and ethical.
What does the future bring for Mother Rose?
I’m very excited to say that I am in the process of designing the next collection. So far, The Trench is my new favourite piece! The next collection will be inclusive of all women, so some pieces will be geared towards pregnancy and post-partum, others with breast-feeding elements and some just gorgeous womenswear for non-pregnant bodies. The goal is to create something that resonates with all women and makes them feel excited to get dressed.
